Willowson T&G - Basic Preparation
- All packages must be stored flat in a secure and dry area (preferably in the room where flooring is to be installed).
- Make sure that the area where the flooring is to be installed is free from moisture by heating the room(s) some days before commencing.
- The sub floor must be dry (moisture < 5%), clean and level to within +/- 2 mm over a 1 metre run.
- Dents or rises of more than 3mm must be levelled. Uneven concrete floors can be levelled with self-levelling compound. Uneven floors of wood can be
- grinded or planed.
- New concrete floors should be allowed to dry at least 8 weeks before installation.
- The flooring must be acclimatised to the room temperature for at least 48 hours prior to the installation.
- Check all boards for faults or damage before you begin the installation.
- Sweep or vacuum the sub-floor. Ensure it is clean and level before you commence.
- In most cases an underlay with a DPM (Damp Proof Membrane) must be used.
- For added insulation and noise reduction, an Acoustic Fibre Board Underlay with 26db, can be used as an alternative product.
- Engineered wood flooring is designed to be a floating floor and as such, must not be fixed to the sub floor by any permanent means (i.e., nailed).
- After installation, refit the skirting to the walls but never to the flooring.
- Decorative beading should be fixed to original skirting only.
- As this is a natural product, it will suffer contractions/expansions due to climate conditions therefore it is important to always allow expansion gaps of
- 12 - 15 mm between the flooring panels, walls, columns, piping, stairways or any fixed element.
Tools and accessories for a correct installation:
You will need a hammer, saw, wedges, pull bar, knocking block and adhesive.
- In most cases the boards must preferably be laid along the length of the room with the groove towards the wall. Wedges must be placed between
the boards and the wall to create a 10mm expansion gap. A wooden floor must be able to move since it expands and contracts with the air humidity.
If the walls are not fully straight, it is necessary to saw the first board line, so that it fits the wall.
- All end joints must be glued on the whole tongue and groove and the boards are pulled together using a crowbar.
- Begin the second row with the piece that was left over from the previous line. Remember that end joints in board lines, which lie against each other,
must be displaced at least 50 cm.
- The long side of the boards must also be glued with 10 cm glue every 50 cm. With this method your flooring can be moved. The glue line must be
laid on the top side of the groove.
- Knock the boards together using a straight knocking block, at least 25 cm long, to avoid damaging the tongue. Make sure that the ends of each
board are pushed tightly together before pushing the sides together.
- Start putting the sides together at the far end of the boards and work towards the end.
- The last board line must usually be sawn lengthwise. Place it exactly on the last board line and measure the width as shown in the diagram.
- Glue as before and press the last board line in its place with a crowbar. Finally, do not forget the wedges.
- When the glue is dry, the wedges are removed and the expansion gap is covered with a skirting board or an alternative expansion strip, such as a
scotia beading. To complete the installation fix thresholds or expansion profiles where necessary.
- At heating pipe, a hole must be drilled with a drill that is 20 mm bigger than the pipe, after that a wedge is sawn out (A1).When the board is in its
place, the piece which was sawn out is fastened with glue (A2). Press it in its place with a wedge. The hole is covered with a pipe cuff around the
B. Door frames are sawn off as shown in the picture so that the flooring board can exactly be placed under the frame.
PLEASE REMEMBER!! FLOORING WILL NOT BE REPLACED BY YOUR SUPPLIER ONCE IT HAS BEEN INSTALLED.